Ah Cuba, what a place to be!
Last month I had the pleasure of visiting Cuba for the first time and I had a blast.
What’s not to love?
You have beautiful beaches, incredible history, and friendly people.
I had read a lot about the country and its history, so I was super excited to hit the ground running.
I think Cuba is a unique combination of old world charm that is emerging into the new world.
So here is a guide to Havana Cuba for Americans (2019 edition)
How To Get To Cuba?
Okay, so the first question you undoubtedly have is how do I get to Cuba?
While Obama was set to relax regulations on Cuba, Trump stepped in to re-tighten them.
In fact, the U.S. recently severely limited Visa issued to Cuban businesses…
And…aren’t there U.S. sanctions on this beautiful island nation?
Yes, technically, you need a valid reason to visit Cuba.
According to the U.S. Government, you must have one of 12 valid reasons to visit Cuba, including:
- Support of the Cuban people
- Humanitarian activities
- Visiting family
- Journalistic activities
- Religious activities, etc
Most tourists like me pick the “support of the Cuban people” reason.
Secondly, you might ask if you need a Visa to visit Cuba.
Yes, you need to buy a tourist visa in order to get to Cuba.
But don’t worry, I’ll tell you exactly how to get it (it’s super easy).
So, now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s go over how you actually get to Cuba.
And it’s super simple – just a two step process
#1 Book A Plane Ticket
First, you need to book a plane ticket. I am assuming you are flying in from the U.S.
You can fly from Mexico if you want (Cancun is a super popular connecting flight), but most U.S. airlines will fly to Cuba now.
The most popular U.S. airline that flies to Cuba is American.
They have flights going to Cuba from North Carolina and Miami (obviously haha).
So if you live anywhere else in the U.S. you will need to make a connecting flight through NC or Miami.
When you buy your plane ticket, the airline will ask you why you are going to Cuba.
You need to list out the reason from one of the 12 exceptions that I just talked about.
Most people will use the “support of the Cuban people” reason.
When you check in to the airline on the day of your flight, they will ask you again. So make sure you input the same reason.
#2 Buy A Tourist Visa
You need a tourist visa to get into Cuba.
Once you have purchased your plane ticket, your airline will send you a link to buy a tourist visa. It should cost around $80 or $90 bucks.
Once you pay it and fill out the information, it will be mailed to you.
If you don’t do this, you can still buy a tourist visa at the airport.
I had my connecting flight in Miami and they literally had a guy stand in front of the gate selling tourist visas – they raised the price to about $100 bucks at the gate.
Buy the visa from the person at the gate, fill it out, and you’re good to go.
And that’s it.
Getting a Cuban visa isn’t that hard. In fact, they want to make it easy for you to get them because they love tourists.
What You Need To Know About Money In Cuba
Alright, the Cuban currency system can be a little confusing for people, so I’m going to break it down as simple as possible.
There are 2 currencies in Cuba: one for tourists and one for locals.
The local currency is Cuban Peso Nacional (CUP)
The tourist currency is the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) – pronounced “kuk”
The CUC is pegged at a one to one ratio to the U.S. Dollar – meaning one dollar will get you one CUP.
Easy peasy, right?
Now when you go to Cuba you MUST bring cash.
No U.S. debt card or credit card will work in Cuba. So if you run out of cash you’ll be shit out of luck.
When you go to convert currency in Cuba, they will need your passport.
You can convert money in the airport or at Cadecas in the city.
The Cadecas typically open around 8:30 AM or 9:00 AM and close in the early afternoon.
Service is extremely slow and the line can get super long. So arrive early in the morning to save time.
Any time you convert money into CUC in Cuba, the government charges you a 3% fee.
BUT if you convert from U.S. Dollars, they will charge you an extra 10% fee.
This means for every $100 you convert, you will only receive 87 CUC.
So DO NOT bring dollars to convert on your trip.
I brought a mixture of Canadian Dollars and Mexican Pesos and only paid the 3% fee.
Also, don’t convert all your money at once otherwise you’ll have to pay the 3% fee to convert back to your home currency.
My strategy is to convert a few hundred dollars to last a few days.
And then calculate what your average daily spend rate is before converting more currency.
Also, try to prepay for as much stuff as you can (like hotels, tours, etc) to save on the 3% conversion fee.
I would budget at least $100 per day (especially if you are going on day trips).
Understanding Cuban Weather
Cuba is known to have great weather all year long and it’s an incredible tropical destination to visit.
That being said, it is super hot and humid in the summer.
I went in February and I was still amazed by how hot it was (especially during the middle of the day).
Secondly, avoid going to Cuba during the Caribbean hurricane season.
Officially, the hurricane season in Cuba runs from early June to late November.
Trust me, you don’t want a big hurricane to ruin your plans!
Where To Stay In Havana
You really have 2 types of places to stay in Cuba depending on what kind of experience you want and how much you want to pay.
You can either book a nice hotel or stay in a Casa Particular.
Let’s start with the hotels.
Despite what some people think, Havana has some really nice hotels – like super nice and modern hotels.
Hotels that could make you think you were in Miami or NYC.
So, what are the best hotels in Havana?
Well, here are my 3 favorite hotels.
1. Hotel Nacional de Cuba
This is easily the most recognizable hotel in all of Cuba.
It’s large, fancy, and super beautiful. A room here will set you back a few hundred a night.
The hotel has a beautiful set of gardens, a nice pool (although it was on maintenance when I was there), and a ton of really cool bars.
At night, the main bar in the courtyard will have live music. You can smoke cigars there and enjoy some rum.
And the hotel is very historic. I would highly recommend getting a tour of the bunker where they have a ton of exhibits of the Cuban Missile Crisis.
It’s also the site of the Havana Convention, where the U.S. Mafia met to discuss mob policies after WWII.
2. Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana
This beautiful hotel is close to the Capitol building and a lot of the tourist destinations in the city.
It’s not cheap (and will run $200+ per night), but offers some incredible views of the city.
The hotel pool above the city is absolutely beautiful. Go there to drink a mojito and some rum and enjoy yourself.
3. BelleVue Deauville Hotel
Now this isn’t the most fancy hotel, but it’s super convenient for a few reasons.
First, it’s super close to the Malecon boardwalk. All you have to do is walk across the street and you’re there.
You’ll be treated to some incredible sunsets every night like this:
Secondly, they have a very easy to use internet service downstairs in the lobby.
You don’t even need to stay there to use their internet. All you need to do is purchase an internet card and you’ll be able to go on.
And I have to say, this is one of the fastest internet spots in the city.
So if you want to post on social media or check emails, go to this hotel.
Casa Particular
So if you don’t want to shell out the money for a nice hotel in Cuba, a
Casa Particular is your other option.
This is basically a family renting out a room in their home for you to stay.
Think of it as an AirBnb.
And you’ll be able to find many of these listings on AirBnb.
But you don’t have to book ahead of time. The city is filled with hundreds (if not thousands) of Casa Particulars.
A decent Casa Particular can be found for $10 – $30 bucks a night depending how fancy of a place you want to stay at.
Other than saving money, I would recommend staying at one to get immersed into the Cuban culture.
Your hosts will often be proud to share Cuban history and their stories with you.
And they will be able to give you a bunch of tips you won’t be able to find at a hotel.
Cell Phones and Internet in Cuba
Alright, let’s talk about something super important when it comes to travelling to Cuba: internet!
First of all, put your phone on Airplane mode the MOMENT you land in Cuba.
If you don’t you will rack up a HUGE data bill.
Even using the data on your phone for a few minutes can result in a $500+ data bill.
In Cuba, the internet is severely limited and restricted by the government (due to infrastructure and censorship).
If you want to access the internet, you need to go to an internet zone (most hotels will qualify) and buy an internet card.
Here’s what it looks like:
The card will give you a username and password to access the internet for one hour at a time.
A card will typically cost a few bucks depending on where you buy it from.
Once you buy the card, scratch off the surface like you’re playing the lottery and you’ll get the password/username.
At some hotels, the scratch-able surface is super hard to remove. If that’s the case, ask the person at the front desk to remove it for you.
I tried a few times and actually ruined a few cards and had to go back to buy more!
Google Maps
Since there is a good chance you’ll be operating without internet or data service in Cuba, you need a reliable offline map.
Sure, you can an old school map, but it’s much easier to download the offline map of Cuba using Google Maps.
This way you can still use GPS and search for restaurants and tourist sites even though you won’t be connected to the web.
Best Things To Do In Havana Cuba
Alright, Havana is filled with so many different things to do.
I would recommend spending at least 3 days in the city to experience all of the major sites.
Here are some of the best things to do in Havana, Cuba.
1. Visit the Capitol Building
This is a historic government building in Havana and it’s parliament is still held here.
You can’t go inside unless you book a tour. They have tours in both English and Spanish throughout the day.
The ticket office is to the left of the main entrance. I don’t remember how much a tour ticket was, but it was less than $5 bucks for sure.
The Capitol Building is incredible.
Let’s start off with the exterior. They have perfectly manicured gardens on the outside.
In fact, they reminded me of Versailles when I went to Paris last summer.
The building itself looks like something built in Rome.
They have huge statues outside on the sides and big doors to the entrance.
When I was there, they were still doing some restoration work on the dome at the top of the building.
When you go inside, you will be greeted with the Statute of the Republic.
It’s one of the largest statutes in a building in the Americas (after the Lincoln Memorial).
The building was previously a presidential palace, so you’ll be greeted with a lot of fancy gold, furniture, intricate marble floors, and large open spaces.
2. Castillo de la Real Fuerza
Castillo de la Real Fuerza is one of the many fortresses in the city of Havana.
It’s located in the Plaza de Armas, one of the main squares in the district.
It is considered one of the oldest forts in the Americas (built in the 16th century, I believe).
Anyways, the fort was built to ward off pirate attacks against the city.
The fort is absolutely beautiful. You’ll see a draw bridge, cannons, and even a cool museum inside filled with ships and a history of Cuba.
Go to the roof to get amazing views of the city and Havana Bay.
The ticket to the museum costs a few bucks, nothing to worry about.
3. Walk Along The Malecon
The Malecon is a seawall/boardwalk that stretches 8 km along the city.
This is the perfect place to watch sunsets and everyone gathers there at the end of the day to have fun.
You’ll often see people fishing off the Malecon.
At night, people like to party here. You’ll see couples on dates – drinking rum and eating dinner here.
You’ll see people playing music and dancing as well.
Fair warning, you as a tourist, you WILL get bombarded by people on the Malecon.
Everyone wants your attention from people asking for money to cab drivers wanting to give you a ride.
It can get a little annoying sometimes.
4. Museum of the Revolution
If there’s only one thing you can do in Cuba, going to the Museum of the Revolution should be on the top of your list.
When I went there, parts of the museum were still undergoing construction. But it was beautiful.
Often times in the U.S., we only hear about history from our viewpoint.
But if going to the Museum will teach you history from “the other side”.
The main focus on the museum is to detail the incredible history of the Cuban Revolution.
I personally find the Cuban Revolution to be the most interesting part of their history so I had a lot of fun at the museum.
Some people thought that the museum was heavily propagandized by the government, but I didn’t think so.
Sure, some of it certainly was, but it’s important to look at history from both sides.
Anyways, the museum has translations in English in case you don’t know Spanish.
The front of the museum is flanked by a giant tank.
In fact, it’s the exact tank Fidel Castro piloted to shoot down the US ship Houston during the Bay of Pigs invasion!
The museum has 3 floors and details a lot of interesting history of the revolution and the Cuban Missile Crisis.
I think the best part of the museum was the Gamma exhibit. It is the exact boat, Fidel Castro and his brother used to sail from Mexico to Cuba to overthrow Batista!
5. Fortresses!
Two must see fortresses in Cuba are the: (1) Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and (2) Castillo de San Carlos de la Cabaña.
To get there I recommend taking the ferry across Havana bay.
Here is the Ferry on Google Maps:
Make sure to take the Casa Blanca route to get to the right destination – otherwise you’ll end up on the wrong side of the island.
I’m actually not sure how much the ferry costs. I just gave the person a coin from my pocket and they let me on.
The ride will take about 6 – 7 minutes.
When you get there you’ll be greeted by the Christ of Havana.
From there, you’ll want to walk to Castillo de San Carlos de la Cabaña first. It should take you around 10 minutes.
Castillo de San Carlos de la Cabaña
la Cabana is my favorite fortress in Havana.
This is an 18th century fortress overlooking Havana Bay.
It was constructed after the British captured Havana in 1762 to ensure it would never happen again.
The entire complex at la Cabana is HUGE! I mean you could fit an entire city here.
It’s absolutely incredible. There are cannons everywhere.
And one of the really cool things is to walk on the roofs where you’ll get an uninterrupted view of Havana.
Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro
Del Morro is the other fortress you want to visit. It’s about a 10 minute walk from la Cabana.
This is a smaller fortress than la Cabana, so don’t get your hopes up.
However, it is amazing. It’s basically a Medieval castle overlooking the water.
There’s also a lighthouse in the castle. It was built in 1846.
There was originally a watchtower in the castle, but the British blew it up when they captured the fortress in 1762.
Day Trips from Havana
During my 5 day trip in Cuba, I took two day drips. One to Vinales and one to Varadero.
Both were amazing trips and highly recommended.
So, let’s talk about transport for your day trips. There are really two options: paying for a private cab driver or taking the bus (Viazul).
Personally, the bus took way too long and was super inefficient, so I decided to pay up to get a private cab.
My private cab to Vinales cost $140 (including tours), while my ride to Varadaro cost $160.
Mine was a little more expensive because the cab was a classic American car (1952 Ford).
The bus ride to Varadero is about $5 bucks I believe, but it takes a lot longer than hiring your own personal driver.
Vinales
Vinales is a small town in western Cuba known for their tobacco plantations.
It’s about a 1.5 – 2 hour drive from Havana.
Do not go on a government sponsored tour of this place. Always go on a private tour.
Your Casa Particular host should be able to hook you up with an operator (and yes, they will receive a cut of that).
The town is gorgeous. You’ll see beautiful mountains, forests, and incredible scenery.
The #1 thing is to go on a cigar plantation tour.
You’ll see how the cigars are made, how the tobacco is planted, and pretty much every step of the process.
They will even let you smoke a cigar. Pretty cool experience if you ask me!
The family at the farm even gave me some Cuban rum to enjoy the cigar.
In Cuba, the government takes 90% of the farmers’ production and they are allowed to sell the rest (as an unbranded cigars).
These cigars are much cheaper than what you’ll get at a government store for the branded versions.
Also, these cigars are much milder and aren’t as bitter. The government uses every part of the tobacco leaf to create a cigar.
And this includes the stem of the leaf, where most of the nicotine is (and it’s also what makes the cigar bitter).
During my trip, I decided to also go horseback riding (cost $10 bucks) for the first time!
And if you have time, go around walking in the town. It’s beautiful and the people are super friendly.
One thing that a lot of people do is the cave in Vinales. Personally, I don’t think it was worth it.
You have to wait 30 – 45 minutes to get on the boat and it’s like a 5 minute ride. Nothing extraordinary at all.
Varadero
Varadero was voted one of the best beaches in the world.
And you know what? I can’t argue with that!
It’s beautiful, absolutely beautiful!
Varadero is basically a 20 km stretch of beach in Cuba. It’s about a 2 hour drive from Havana.
I was lucky and got the same driver as my day trip to Vinales. He spoke basic conversational English and was super friendly.
Varadero is amazing. The water is crystal clear.
When I went, the water wasn’t as warm as I expected, but it my body adapted to it pretty quick.
On Varadero you’ll find many resorts. I decided to stay near the western part of the strip to get some rays.
Here are a few things you should be aware of in Varadero:
Yes, you can drink on the beach (in fact, I highly encourage it)!
You’ll likely see a lot of Eastern Europeans here. I met a bunch of Russians and Ukrainians here.
The beach is filled with mostly tourists so no one will really steal your stuff.
I left my bag unattended (traveling solo) and no one stole anything from me.
Finally, it costs around $2 or $3 to rent a beach chair – not a big deal, but I didn’t know about it, but got surprised when they asked me about it.
Overall, Varadero is an amazing day trip from Havana. Expect to spend at least 5 – 6 hours here.
It’s one of the best beaches in Cuba (and the world for that matter). This is a bucket list item for sure.
Does Cuban Food Suck?
So one thing I heard a lot about in my research of Cuba was the lack of good food.
People said the food was bland and boring.
But I found the food to be really good.
Now, most of the time, the food is a variation of meat + beans + rice + salad.
So if you aren’t a meat eater, Cuban food is probably not for you.
But they do a lot of really cool stuff in Cuba. The most popular meats include chicken (obviously), pork, and fish.
A lot of people felt like the food wasn’t seasoned properly, but I didn’t find that to be the case.
I stuffed my face full in Cuba and probably gained a few pounds haha.
Now keep in mind that they give you A LOT of food in Cuba. The portions are YUGE (cue Donald Trump voice).
Also, the service at restaurants is super slow. I mean SUPER SLOW! So keep that in mind when you’re going out.
Nightlife in Havana
A lot of people suggested I check out Tropicana while in Cuba. However, I felt like it was too touristy.
So instead, I checked out Fabrica de Arte Cubano.
It’s really hard to describe this place.
It’s basically an art gallery, bar, dance club, and restaurant all mixed into one place.
When you go in, they give you a card. The bartender will stamp that card every time you buy a drink or buy food.
And you pay at the end when you leave. If you lose the card, they’ll charge you $40 bucks.
I went there twice, once on Saturday night and on Sunday night too.
Saturday night was super popular – the line to get in wrapped around the block (not kidding!).
It’s a really cool place that attracts both locals and tourists.
Check it out. Trust me, you won’t regret it.
How To Get Around Havana
One of the big questions you will have is how to get around in Cuba.
Well, you can either use the bus or take a cab. There aren’t more options than that.
Personally, I never took the bus in Cuba because it was much faster and more efficient to hail a cab.
Now, don’t get me wrong, the bus is cheaper if that’s what you’re looking for.
A cab ride from the airport will cost between $20 – $30 bucks depending where in Havana you are staying at.
All cab rides are negotiable. So don’t accept the first price. Always haggle down a bit because they like to quote super high rates at first.
Second, a cab between the neighborhoods of Cuba should cost less than $15 bucks, so don’t get swindled.
Oddly enough, cab rides are one of the most expensive things in Cuba.
Cuban Cigars & Rum
If you’re interested in rum or cigars, then you definitely came to the right place!
Cuba is known for its women, rum, and cigars!
Personally, I’m not a big cigar person. In fact, I had my first and only cigar in Cuba.
But it is really something you need to try. When in Rome, right?
Anyways, the only place you should buy cigars and rum in Cuba is through government stores.
DO NOT buy anything from the streets as they won’t be using tobacco leaves or real rum.
I purchased some Montecristo no. 4 cigars from a shop to give as gifts to friends and family. Fun fact, this was Che Guevara’s favorite cigar!
In terms of rum, I would recommend buying Havana Club 7 year anejo or 15 year anejo.
And No, the “Havana Club” you are buying in Cuba is NOT the stuff you can buy in the U.S.
The Havana Club in the U.S. is owned by Bacardi (which was ironically originally a Cuban company).
However, the Havana Club sold in Cuba is entirely different and is owned by a joint venture between the Cuban government and a French liquor company.
Anyways, how many cigars can you bring back into the U.S.? And what about rum?
You can bring back up to 100 cigars and up to $800 worth of souvenirs from Cuba.
But this policy isn’t heavily enforced at all.
When I came back to the U.S. in Miami, all they asked me was the dollar value of the goods I was bringing back (if it was less than $800).
And no one from CBP actually checked my bags or even questioned me.
In fact, I had more trouble on my Guadalajara trip bringing back tequila bottles!
Is Havana/Cuba Safe?
Is Cuba safe for tourists in 2019 – especially Americans?
I’m not sure why so many people are afraid of safety in Cuba.
Havana (and all of Cuba for that matter) is safer than 90% of cities in the U.S.!
The police there are more than willing to help tourists because they depend on tourism a lot.
And Cubans are some of the friendliest people you will ever meet.
The only thing you have to be afraid of in Cuba is falling for a scam and losing a few bucks.
Guide To Cuba For Americans: Final Thoughts!
Overall, Cuba is a great place to visit (even for Americans).
You’ll be in awe of the country’s beautiful beaches, unique history and culture, and friendly atmosphere.
If you found this guide to be useful, please share and let me know if you had fun on your trip!